VIN 194379S719768

Car Year:	1969
Car's approximate birthday:	March 24, 1969
Owner:	Unknown Owner
State:	Arizona
Country:	United States
Purchase date:	Undefined
Status:	Current Owner
State:	Nice Driver
Exterior:	983 Fathom Green
Interior:	Std Black (Vinyl)	(39.59%)
Softtop:	Unknown
Wheels:	Unknown
Delivery Dealer Zone:	Unknown
Delivery Dealer Code:	Unknown
Options:	RPO	Option	Percentage Sold [%]	Sales Price [$]
	19437	Base Corvette Sport Coupe (BB 390hp)	57.09%	4,781.00
	A31	Power Windows	25.32%	63.20
	A82	Headrests	100.00%	17.95
	G81	Positraction Rear Axle, all ratios	95.36%	46.35
	L36	427ci, 390hp Engine	27.17%	221.20
	M21	4-Speed Manual Transmission, close ratio	35.45%	184.80
	N37	Tilt-Telescopic Steering Column	26.64%	84.30
	Total		0.000002317170187% (1 Cars)	5,398.80
Factory job nr.:	Unknown
Export Car:	Non Export Car
Car history:
1969 L36 Corvette Coupe. Like most, the original L36 is long gone. The engine is a .030 over 396 which makes it a 402. Couldn’t find a decent 427/454 block for well over 6 months (no internet in 1994) but the 396 block I found was in great shape, so I went with it. If you have the correct block, you can make it a correct engine with just pistons/rings as all the other components are a direct fit. Power windows, tilt/tele steering, and nice interior are some of the key points. Car runs strong and sounds great through the headers and complete exhaust. All new top-of-the line parts went into the drivetrain such as detailed below. Front suspension was recently upgraded. New brakes and lines on all 4 wheels. Mostly new interior. Needs alignment and rear spring to get it back to factory specs. Drivetrain: Engine: Big Block Chevy, built by Johnson Machine, Rapid City, SD (best machine shop in the area, NAPA dealer) ThomasNet® - Company Profile . Block: 396 Chevy bored .030 over, decked, 2-bolt mains Heads: Chevy oval port, casting 781, 2.3/1.8 valves, comp cams magnum roller tip rockers. Crank: Forged Chevy, forging number 7118, balanced rotating Assembly, .010/.010, cross drilled (the best Bowtie crank) Rods: Bowtie performance 3/8” w/ ARP rod bolts Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic, .180 dome, p/n KB361030 Cam: Crane Hydraulic, grind H-2-272, .515/.510 lift, 272/284 duration Intake: Original 1969 aluminum intake, casting # 3937793 Carburetor: Rochester 4MV p/n 7028212 (remanufactured by Holley). Distributor: MSD Pro-Billet w/vacuum advance and mechanical tach drive with 6A control box (mounted behind passenger side dash panel) Balancer: New GM harmonic balancer, p/n 3879623 Oil Pan: New GM 5 quart pan and baffle, p/n 14091356 Transmission: Original Muncie M21 close ratio (serial number matches car). Strong, quiet, no problems. Centerforce clutch and pressure plate, GM flywheel. Rear end: 3.55 ratio (I believe, but I have not opened) positraction. Quiet and no problems. Interior: Seats: Driver is new vinyl with new foam; Passenger is I believe 1968 leather (I couldn’t bring myself to destroying the very nice leather seat, but I will include new seat foam, covers, and headrest in case you want to make them match). Carpet: New front and rear carpet kit. Rear is not completely installed as I could not remove the clips for the T-Top storage strap retainer. Rather than cut the carpet, I left it for you to remove the retainers and properly install. Gauges: Very nice gauge cluster. Clock internals were replaced with an Ecklers quartz movement. Mechanical oil pressure gauge works (running pressure is 35+ p.s.i.). Fuel gauge does not work, must have something to do with sending unit as the wiring harness has been changed. I know temp gauge works; I think the alternator gauge works but not positive (it’s just right of center when running). Mechanical drive tack works well. Speedometer does not work because the cable is missing the retainer and keeps coming off, but it does work. Console: New forward and brake console. Looks real nice. Rear fiber optics work! Storage Compartments: New doors and surround installed. For the life of me, I can’t get the center storage compartment to fit properly. It is not installed but will be included. The center compartment is also missing the strike plate to keep it closed. Includes operable lock with key. Light works. Dash: Dash pad is original (as far as I know) and in excellent shape. Driver pad must have been dyed because I can see some tan around the screw holes and in a few creases. Passenger pad has map pockets and looks to be original black. Door Panels: New reproduction with comfort weave insert and window seal pre-installed. The door lock plate on the old ones were so banged up that I didn’t want to install in case the reproductions don’t have the exact same bolt pattern. The U trim is OK and will be included but is not installed. Missing the retaining plates that hold the bottom of the door panel firmly to the door. New pulls and screw/washer set included (panels are not screwed to the door). I have the handle and lock knobs which are included but not installed. No sense installing it all until all the trim is in place. Rest of Interior: All pieces that were beat up beyond use were replaced (rear quarter trim, front pillar cover, forward console, brake console). Ones that weren’t are the rear window trim and kickplates (driver kickplate has broken vent louvers and part where it wraps around the door frame is broke. Astro ventilation flappers work in front. Driver side is missing some of the ducts from the vent to the ball vent in the dash. Interior looks nice as a whole. I know the flaws so it is easy for me to see, however, someone who doesn’t would never know. Body: Frame: Frame looks good to me. There is a lot of dirt caked to the rear (person I bought it from lived on a dirt road). I have cleaned it numerous times, but the dirt still flakes off especially when you are under it and working on it. It is dirt and not rust flakes. The dirt in South Dakota was clay-like and it’s almost impossible to get off without using a wire brush. The only advice I received when I was looking for a Vette was to check the rear riser. That area is solid. Most of the front frame was painted with POR-15. Never got around to working on the rear portion of the car though (that’s what having 3 kids will do to your time/budget). Fiberglass: Original big bock hood with 427 emblems. I can’t align it well by myself; I’ve tried. This is not the only car I couldn’t align the hood worth a darn. Something about doing the opposite of what you intend (raise right left to lower rear right)? I just can’t seem to get it. Gaps are uneven. Minor stress cracks at the usual places (see pics) where bonding strips meet panels. Lots of rock dings in front area. Doors are 1968. I was told from previous owner that the person he bought it from replaced doors with power doors that happened to be ’68. I have 2 ’69 compatible doors I am including in sale. Once has full glass and window while the other is just a shell. I will add pictures on Sunday of all the included parts that are not installed (have to get them out of the attic in the garage). You can swap out the correct doors and sell the ‘68’s and since they are one-year only, they get a premium price ($750-$1,000 on eBay). Car looks good from 10 ft. The paint job is still glossy and has overspray in areas but the paint does shine fairly well. I think the car has been painted twice. Original color was Fathom Green, then it looks like it was repainted red, and now it is white. I have had it garaged since 1994 or 1995 when I purchased it. Not sure what all happened to it before I bought it. There is evidence of some repairs that I noticed in the rear when I was swapping out the rear wiring harness and to the floor in the seat area. Glass: Astro ventilation, Power windows (working), Removable rear window Bumpers/Trim: Looks to be all there with the exception of c-o-r-v-e-t-t-e on the rear. Bumpers look straight with nice shine but are not perfect. There are some dings here and there and some pitting starting especially on the underside. Wiper Door is all there but not operable with vacuum (actuator is missing) although you can move it by hand. Brakes / Suspension: Brakes: New Stainless Steel Brake Corporation calibers on all 4 wheels. Most lines are new except for the one you need to pull the body to replace. Parking brakes do not work. Wheels and Tires: Aftermarket aluminum wheels with Goodyear Eagles. Possibly from a mid 70’s Vette but not positive (look like some 76 wheels), either way, they look nice on the car. Exhaust: Hedman headers with complete new exhaust. This is a mistake I make. Should have went with Hooker Super Comp but tried to skimp. The Hedman are too large and I have melted a plug wire or two. I used a heat resistant cover on the one that gave me the most problems (#3 I think). I believe the primary tubes are 2.125” whereas the Hookers are only 1.875” which would make a big difference. Suspension: New ball joints and tie rod ends from PST along with poly bushings in control arms. New big block front springs. Front anti-sway bar with poly end links but not attached as one of the bolts on driver side that mount to the frame is frozen and I couldn’t remove it. 4 new KYB Gasadjust shocks. Needs alignment and rear spring. No work has been done to rear suspension. Tilt/telescoping steering column with original steering wheel both in excellent condition. Smooth operation on tilt and telescope. New complete horn button kit with all various pieces but no horns. Electrical: Headlamps work (brights too) but do not go up and down. They did until I put the big block in and haven’t since. Replaced all the vacuum tubing. Engine doesn’t pull much vacuum though. No vacuum storage tank (those hoses are included in spare parts). Horns are missing. All rear lamps work. Turn Signals work except for front (no bulb and I can’t find it). Brake ligts work; back-up light do not (missing switch on transmission, bracket is there). New main, engine, and rear wiring harness from Eagle Products which replaced hacked-up spiced original. All lamps work except for side markers which are all missing bulbs. Courtesy lights on interior (driver and passenger front) are all new but the door switches need replaced. When I short the two leads at the switch, they come on. Rear cargo area lamp is included in spare parts but there is no mounting bracket. Was taped in place when I bought the car. No radio. Engine Compartment: New radiator and fan shroud. Aftermarket flex fan for max cooling in the high desert. Could use some cleaning. Spare parts are in last photo and include: right and left door. One door is complete. The other door does not have the glass. The handle and lock mechanism is not installed as you can see in picture. Also included is new seat foam and vinyl covers, seat cover hardware, seat back adjusting shims, headrest, new seat back, door panel hardware, color coded vacuum hoses that go to the vacuum tank which is missing. Center storage compartment I cannot get to fit for some reason (too tall, need to trim the top), Chilton manual, inner fender a-arm covers, extra bulbs, rear compartment light, front anti-sway bar, driver side floor vent parts, and misc screws leftover from screw kit. January 4, 2008.
For Sale:	No
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